Product Description

Headlights are one of the most important parts of your vehicles safety prevention features. When headlights are dim, have failed or are not adjusted properly, there is a drastic decrease in the driver's visibility. It is essential to equip your car with adequate lighting so you can see and also been seen by others. Spyder Auto headlights offer a sleek, innovative design that delivers optimal quality and instant upgrade to your outdated headlights.

Product Details

• Amazon Sales Rank: #270778 in Automotive
• Brand: Spyder Auto
• Model: 847245030207
• Dimensions: 15.00 pounds

Features

• All the tail lights package will come as a pair left side and right side; designed as direct bolt-on replacement parts
• All wiring for the headlights was preassembled for essential plug and play application, halo rim wires need to connect and do some simple wiring connection
• These lights are made by an OE approved and ISO certified manufacturer with the quality meet or exceed all OE standards
• Some of the package includes light bulbs, for package which does not come with any light bulbs, you can apply the stock light bulbs for installation

Customer Reviews

Most helpful customer reviews

5 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
Good Looks, But Dangerously Poor Light Output Without HID
By H. T. Roberts
******* UPDATE FOLLOWING INITIAL REVIEW, UPGRADED FROM 2 STARS TO 4 STARS WITH CAVEAT ******

This review will cover the headlight units and their assembly, as well as some tips for those installing the headlights themselves.

Pros:
nice looks
bright halos (when they have warmed up)
both low beams and hi beams can be adjusted up and down
holes lined up perfectly for assembly
decent quality plastics used

Cons:
didn't come with quick connectors
assembly issues with the LEDs discovered, but ultimately fixed
cannot adjust lights left and right (hot spots point to the right too much)
'hot spot' pattern, uneven illumination (very poor engineering of projectors)

Overall:
Disappointed. All looks and no substance. Owning these is like dating an air-headed hottie that can't cook - fun to have on your arm around town, but she's gonna burn the house down if she tries to make a bowl of cereal.< br />
The light pattern on these are more than disappointing, and may even be dangerous. Projectors only work when there aren't hot spots. Good projectors have an even, wide, and bright pattern. The not-so-bright spots are 95% of the pattern with these. Worse, you cannot adjust the focus left or right. The hot spots on mine focus too far to the right, so I'm stuck with this pattern until I get something else (more on this later). The light output from the stock headlights is CONSIDERABLY better.

I had to put HIDs on these to make them closer to the light output of the stock headlights. I installed a 35 Watt HID kit with these. Have both 6000K and 4300K bulbs, and recommend 4300K (more lumens) - in case you were wondering which to get. I may get the 50 Watt Morimoto HID kit with 4300K. Apparently you can get almost 1000 lumen more light from those, compared to the 35W model (a heavy duty wiring harness is needed for the 50W ones, though). But then again, the h ot spots may make all of this a moot point.

Also had some issues with the LEDs on these units (intermittent On/Off), but a quick look revealed that the assemblers didn't bend the leads on the LEDs correctly - so it was a quick fix after my initial F-bomb fit.

This is a negative on Nissan, not Spyder - Adjusting the hi beams are easy, but adjusting the low beams is a pain. I had to keep the two easy-to-get-to bolts off in order to squeeze my arm and tool from the front (stubby ratchet with 8mm socket). Other's recommend going through the wheel well, a backdoor approach, so all the bolts stay on during up/down adjustments.

Conclusion:
Buy a quality HID kit, like Morimoto (not sold on Amazon), if you buy these headlights. This will improve the function to a reasonable/usable level.

My belated research has uncovered that these headlights aren't any better or worse than other aftermarket custom headlights, when it comes to light ou tput performance. They're all made in China, and ALL have crappy projectors.

These headlights have some really good points, like, quality materials, fit and finish, and cool looks. So I have to give more than 1 star. However, their primary function as a device to illuminate the night is so far off the mark that I can't give it more than 2 stars.

In the future, I may actually retrofit my old headlights with a projector retrofit kit. This is considerably more work, but I'm a little night blind, so I need all the lumens I can get. These Spyder headlight will have to remain on while I do more research and save for a retrofit kit. The 4300K HID kit has made it much more usable, so I'm not too worried about keeping these on for now.

Still interested in buying these? Then the following should help make assembly a little easier...

ASSEMBLY HINTS:
!!!!KEEP YOUR OLD HEADLIGHTS!!!! You'll be canabalizing some things from them!
-buy quick connectors
-watch SEVERAL You Tube vids - search "Titan Spyder Headlight"
-turn on old headlights and mark (with tape) where the light pattern hits the wall on the garage
-remove the front grill per videos (very easy)
-turn steering wheel all the way to the right or left (this opens up the wheel well area)
-remove screw in middle of wheel well, located in front middle of well, at an even height with headlight
(you may need to poke your head in the wheel well to see it)
-bend away the plastic wheel wells to get to the hidden side bolts (one 8mm, one 10mm, each side)
-be sure to put those hidden bolts back, or your fender will bulge later, not kidding
(big middle finger to Nissan for that engineering marvel)
-you'll transplant the wire harness from the old headlights
-AND you may also have to transplant those little metal threaded bolt holder clamps
(don't worry, you'll know what those are when you try to put the 10mm bolt back on without them)
-to put the grill back on, you need to use needle nose pliers to remove the plastic clips that stayed on the frame when you removed it, and place them on the grill before trying to put the grill back on...this allows the grill to snap back on to the frame very easily

TOOLS NEEDED:
-painter's tape (to mark top of old light pattern)
-8mm & 10mm sockets and wrenches
-stubby rachet
-stubby phillips head screwdriver (for wheel well)
-VERY long flat tip screw driver, like 14 inches (to remove the grill)
-needle nose pliers and/or wire crimpers
-electrical tape
-16/18 gauge wire quick connects
***if you want a quality job done***
*medium duty solder iron (you want something over 900 Watts)
*wire shrink wrap (various sizes)
*heat gun or cigarette lighter
*0.003" diameter no-clean lead-free solder

Best of luck. If you have any questions about this spe cific product, or the assembly, post a question and I'll answer as promptly as I can.

*** UPDATE 2/4/2013 (few weeks later) ***

I decided to buy the parts for a retrofit piecemeal, but after installing the Morimoto HID kit, I won't be retrofitting the old headlights after all.

I recently received the Morimoto HID kit, and decided to install to see if they performed as well as testimonials on HID forums said they did. Well, all I can say is "OMFG why didn't I do this sooner?"

Yep, my opinion of these headlights has dramatically changed now that I have a Japanese HID kit, instead of the cheapie Chinese HID kit that are found on Amazon and eBay. As it turns out, the length and straightness of bulb are just as important as the quality of the ballasts.

Certainly, the Japanese ballasts are a world apart from the Chinese ballasts, and I don't want to discount how important this is. It is just important to note that the projecto rs on these headlights are tuned for high quality HID bulbs, which have specific dimensions. After swapping out the Chinese kit with the Japanese kit, the pinpointed hot spots (that were off to the right) were replaced with a broad bright pattern that was a difference of night and day.

In essence, the sweet spot inside the projector body is specifically made for a quality HID bulb, which is basically longer and straighter than the cheapie Chinese bulb - and very much longer than the original Halogen bulb. I was shocked at the difference in light output - eyes-bulged-jaw-dropped-SHOCK. And after carefully reading up on how projectors work, especially the importance on the dimensions of the bulbs, I have come to appreciate the engineering effort put into these headlights. Sure there are better projectors available for retrofit, but these are actually quite good. And with a quality Japanese HID kit, they are significantly brighter than the stock headlights, which was my goal to begin with.

In case you were wondering where I bought and how much I spent:
TheRetrofitSource dot com
1 x 9006: Morimoto Elite HID System (Elite9006) = $150.00
Wire Harness Type Heavy Duty Relay
Wire Harness 9006
Kelvin 4300K
Ballasts Morimoto 3Five (35w)

After shipping it was about $163

I spent $79 on the cheapie ones from OmegaXenon dot com, which turned out to be more expensive than the ones on eBay or Amazon, but just at crappy. So don't be a fool, as I was. You get what you pay for with HID. Now I'm not saying to buy an expensive HID kit. I'm saying to buy a name-brand quality kit from a reputable source - 'reputable source' being the most important part of this recommendation. Also, watch out for phony Philips HID kits on eBay.

I also highly recommend you do NOT get 55w ballasts. Those will eventually burn out the mirrors of the internal reflectors and possibly melt the plasti c housing and wiring, requiring you to replace the entire headlight assembly (and wiring harness). The 35w ones are plenty bright enough. Trust me on this. I am partially night blind, and I love the 35w output.

I only gave 4 stars, due to the fact that you have to buy a quality HID kit to make these function properly.